At 11pm every night during the Fes Festival, Morocco’s Sufi Brotherhoods would perform in a courtyard at a cultural center called Dar Tazi. These concerts were open to the public, although the cops seemed to be on high riff-raff alert, so the scene at the door was something like a velvet rope. The shows ran the gamut, from hypnotic a cappella chants to livelier settings with ouds and drums, but nothing held a candle to the Aïssawa Brotherhood, which closed the Dar Tazi series on Saturday. I was running on fumes by this point, and my airport shuttle was at 5am. But I just had to see this, people told me, and they were right.
This procession lasted a good 20 minutes, advancing by degrees toward the stage, where the music only got better and continued for at least an hour and a half.
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